2015 - Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol

The 2015 VCC is a blend of 80% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon and it has a deep garnet color. It prances out with scents of flamboyant black cherry pie, plum preserves and blueberry compote, giving way to suggestions of truffles, smoked meats, Indian spices, and fragrant soil, with a touch of sandalwood and rose oil. Full-bodied, the palate is bursting with expressive, exotic spices and floral notes, framed by ripe, grainy tannins and wonderful tension, finishing very long and fragrant. The pH is about 3.7 - very impressive for such a warm year.

Understated brilliance, with restraint shown in its precisely carved cassis and bilberry fruit on the opening, softening through the mid palate to show creamier raspberry and damson fruit, with black truffles and cocoa bean delivering the Pomerol caress. Expert construction, tannic architecture fully in focus but overlaid with the succulence of the vintage, such a good wine that has decades of it. . 50% new oak for ageing. Alexandre Thienpont owner.

The 2015 Vieux Château Certan is a wine that Alexandre Thienpont described as being "easy to understand." He was rather negative towards this vintage and likened it to a barbecue rather than haut cuisine! It was picked in three waves through the vines between September 17 and October 2 at 42hl/ha. This has a comparatively high alcohol at 15%. It has a slightly oxidative bouquet with spice box and white pepper scents, but there is also some evidence of VA here. The palate is static and lacks vibrancy. It's savory, with some warmth on the finish. A second bottle is poured, and it is consistent, There is nothing faulty here, but it feels hot and smudged on the finish. Alexandre Thienpont had to have his arm twisted to add this to the line-up, and I can understand why. It tasted so well a few years ago…is this a vintage tripping over its shoelaces? Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium.